2. Don't panic. Especially if you are wondering why nobody is in the largest bus terminal the night the president is forced into exile.
3. Head for the hills. Or in this case, don't let the State Department dissuade your travel plans to to tropical islands.
4. Relax. May I recommend snorkeling in the world's second-largest barrier reef system? You will see some truly otherworldly beauty.
5. Have a stiff drink. This is crucial. Don't let martial law and a nationwide curfew stop you from finding a dive and boozing.
6. Never back down. So the police are carting curfew-violators off to jail? If you were promised free seconds, don't pay the full meal.
7. Pray. Four hours of this will do the trick if riots are blocking the only bridge out of town. Your bus will get through on its third try.
The events of the "coup" are all over the news, although we are surprised that word is being used so much. Until Sunday, President Zelaya's actions were widely interpreted as a bid to give him unconstitutional power. The referendum to extend his term limits were declared unconstitutional by the court, and his decision to fire the chief of the military looked like a desperate political move to counter his unpopularity by seizing control of the army. So is it the old Latin American military coup or the other two branches of government intervening to save the constitution from a Chavez-style semi-takeover? Depends on who is really in charge now, which is very confusing for everyone here. Interestingly, the newly-declared president is from El Progreso.
Three guerrilla fighters in Utila outfitted in matching faux Ray-Bans.
We have traveled the length of the country, from the Nicaraguan border to Utila in the Carribean Sea, as the coup has unfolded. Except for more police checkpoints, worried conversations, and a small demonstration in the port of La Ceiba (that blocked a bridge and delayed our return here to Progreso by four hours) the country we have seen is tranquil and confused. There is a 9pm nationwide curfew, though the only difference is this seems to be decreed by martial law instead of the gangs.
We're safe despite earthquakes, gangs, and the putsch. More worrying to us is the probability of a teacher strike that would delay our project indefinitely. And threats resulting from gang disputes in Las Brisas that have made our partner organization temporarily pull out of our work-site.
Better than safe, actually. Utila is a mecca for divers and backpackers, which makes it a tropical paradise that is both cheap and predominantly English-speaking. Though the average Utilitarian has no sense of justice (see #6), most are the very interesting and off-beat people. We would really like to go back and get our diving certifications; the reef and its fish are strange and beautiful and vividly colorful. And you can go either for L25 ($1.25) or if you buy a beer. Ironically the most relaxed I have ever been in Honduras has been in the middle of this military coup of sorts. So I thought I'd share some tips.
Next: some tips for surviving third-world regional conflicts when the Venezuelans send the Nicaraguans over the border.
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